Artificial grass performs well in Katy's climate, but only when the ground beneath it is prepared correctly. This guide walks you through infill options, base preparation, drainage design, and the finishing details that separate a durable installation from one that fails within a season. Whether you are converting a St. Augustine lawn that has thinned from chinch bugs, building a dog run that will not turn to mud, or preparing a pool surround that must shed tropical downpours, the work happens below the surface first.
A homeowner who understands infill weight, base compaction, and drainage rates can ask the right questions of any installer, including us. You will know what to expect in writing, what shortcuts look like, and why the cheapest bid often means the shortest lifespan. This guide is for Katy and the surrounding areas where flat prairie topography, gumbo clay soil, and Gulf Coast weather set the rules for what works.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material spread across the turf after installation. It serves four functions: it props the fibres upright so they look and feel natural, it protects the backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight to keep the turf from shifting, and it helps the system drain. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic ballast that is affordable and widely available. Silica does the job, but it can compact over time and it does not offer special properties beyond weight and drainage.
Coated sand is silica sand rounded and coated with a polymer or mineral layer. The coating makes the grains gentler underfoot, helps them resist compaction, and allows manufacturers to add colour for aesthetic reasons. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes odors, making it popular for Pet Turf and Dog Run Installation areas. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under names such as Envirofill, incorporate additives designed to reduce bacterial growth and lower surface temperature. These options cost more but are worth considering in high-traffic pet areas or where heat is a concern. Crumb rubber, made from recycled tires, is standard for sports fields and artificial turf courts, but it is rarely used in residential yards because it retains heat, breaks down over time, and is not necessary for typical home use.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified in pounds per square foot, a measurement that tells you how much material is actually in the turf. The amount matters because too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts of budget installations. Without enough weight, the fibres do not stand up properly, the backing is exposed to sunlight and degrades faster, the turf shifts and wrinkles, and drainage can actually worsen because water does not distribute evenly through the system.
Typical residential turf requires between 2 and 4 pounds per square foot, depending on the product's pile height, fibre type, and intended use. A dog run or pet area may need more infill to handle foot traffic and to help contain odor. A putting green uses a much lighter infill for a firmer surface. Rather than rely on a general range, ask your installer for the infill weight in writing as part of the spec. This number, combined with face weight and pile height, tells you whether you are getting a product built to last or one cut to the cheapest possible price.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
The layers beneath artificial grass determine whether water drains away or pools, whether the turf stays flat or develops dips and soft spots, and whether odor builds up in a pet area. Start by removing the existing lawn, sod, or old turf completely, including roots and thatch. Roots left in place will decay, create voids, and cause the new turf to settle unevenly. If you are replacing old artificial turf, the old material and any deteriorated base must be hauled away and disposed of properly.
Next, excavate the area to a depth determined by the base material and site conditions, typically 3 to 4 inches for a residential yard. Lay a weed barrier (landscape fabric) where the soil is likely to grow weeds, particularly in shaded areas or where turf meets planting beds. The barrier prevents weeds from pushing through while allowing water to pass. Then install a free-draining base of decomposed granite or crushed base rock, spread in lifts and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. For patios, balconies, or pool surrounds, or for pet areas where comfort matters, an optional draining underlay or foam pad goes down next. This layer cushions foot traffic, adds comfort, and helps manage moisture. Finally, lay the turf. On concrete or hard surfaces, never glue turf flat to a slab that holds water; instead, use a draining underlay and ensure edge drainage so water cannot pool underneath.
Base Prep on Katy Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Katy sits on the flat Katy Prairie, with soil that is predominantly gumbo clay. Clay drains poorly, holds water, and becomes slippery when wet. If you install artificial grass over unexcavated clay, water will sit on top of the base, the turf will feel soft and spongy, odors will develop in pet areas, and the system will fail prematurely. Base preparation is not optional in Katy; it is the foundation of any installation that lasts.
Proper base prep begins with excavation to remove topsoil and expose the clay. The area is then graded with a slight fall away from the house and any pool, so water runs off rather than collecting. Decomposed granite or crushed base rock, typically 3 to 4 inches deep, is laid in lifts and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. Each lift should be no more than 2 inches before compaction. An uncompacted base causes dips, puddles, soft spots, and trapped moisture that breeds odor and accelerates turf degradation. If your yard has a history of standing water, poor drainage, or areas that stay soggy after rain, that drainage problem must be addressed before turf goes down. In some cases, that means grading, French drains, or other site work that is beyond turf installation. We will be honest about whether the site can support artificial grass or whether drainage must be fixed first.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass backing comes in two main types. Perforated backing has small holes punched through it, allowing water to drain through the backing into the base below. Fully permeable backing is woven or designed to allow water to pass through the entire structure. Drainage performance is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH/SF). A faster-draining turf (8 to 15 GPH/SF or higher) is better for areas that see heavy use or heavy rain, such as a dog run during Katy's tropical downpours or a playground after a storm. Slower-draining turf (2 to 5 GPH/SF) works fine for light residential use on a well-prepared base.
The critical point is this: fast-draining turf still fails on a base that does not drain. If the clay underneath is not excavated and replaced with compacted base rock, water will pool on top of the base, and the turf will become waterlogged regardless of its backing type. For pet areas and hard surfaces like patios and balconies, an underlay or foam pad adds an extra drainage layer and improves comfort. Ask your installer for the drainage rate of the specific turf product in writing, and verify that the base preparation plan includes proper excavation and compaction. A spec that names the base depth and material is a sign that drainage has been thought through.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The finishing details separate a professional installation from a rushed one. Seams are joined using seam tape and seam adhesive applied to the backing. The grain of the turf (the direction the fibres lean) must be aligned on both sides of the seam so it looks invisible and water flows across it smoothly. A visible seam, especially one that is raised or has a dark line, signals that the work was done carelessly. Nails or staples secure the turf to the base and are spaced at intervals (typically 6 to 8 inches around the perimeter and at seams). If nails are too far apart or missing, the turf will shift and wrinkles will form. Edging is finished with bender board, metal trim, or another secured perimeter that keeps the turf from peeling back. Turf cut tight to pavers and pool decks prevents tripping and looks finished. Power brooming is the final step: the installer runs a power broom across the entire surface to stand the fibres upright and spread the infill evenly. This makes the turf look full and natural and ensures infill is distributed for drainage and protection.
A lifted edge, a buckled or wrinkled seam, or fibres that lay flat instead of standing up are all signs of poor workmanship. These issues do not improve with time; they get worse. When you visit a finished job or review photos, look at the seams, the edges, and the overall appearance of the fibres. A well-finished installation looks seamless and feels firm underfoot.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before work begins, every homeowner should have a written specification from their installer. This document is your protection and your reference if questions arise. A complete spec includes the turf product name and fibre type (for example, polyethylene or polypropylene), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and drainage rate (in gallons per hour per square foot), the infill type and pounds per square foot, the base depth, base material, and compaction method, whether a weed barrier is included, the seam method and edging detail, cleanup and haul-off, and the workmanship warranty period. This spec is not a sales document; it is a technical record that proves the installer knows what they are building and has committed to a standard.
A local, independent turf installation company will provide this spec in writing and stand behind it. We measure every site and provide a detailed estimate that includes these details, along with a pricing range based on the scope of work. If you are ready to discuss your project, call us for a free estimate at (281) 746-6943. We will walk through the base prep, infill, drainage, and finishing details specific to your yard and give you the spec in writing before we start.